by Jackal » Thu Dec 30, 2010 5:28 pm
I've heard of people using scotch brite or emery paper on the end of a wooden dowel modified to chuck up in a cordless drill. If using a drill I'd suggest cordless because they usually have better speed control.
The best results I've seen, and one of the "safest" methods is to use valve grinding compound (paste) which comes in various grits. I think the finest would do it and its available at auto parts stores. Normally the paste is put on the valve seat and the valve (like in a car engine) is turned with one of two tools. One is not much more than a dowel with a suction cup on the end turned back and forth between your hands as if you were rubbing your hands to keep them warm. The other tool does the same thing but it is like an old crank egg beater and when you crank it the rod coming out of it with the suction cup on the end turns back and forth about a half turn or so. A good idea would be to make a "lower guide" of some type to keep the suction cup (which in this case has the valve grinding compound put inside of it) from "walking around" on your metal. A board with a hole in it the size of the rod which rotates back and forth with some pads on one side to raise it up of your metal just a little should work and keep the suction cup rotating in the same spot so the round burnish marks are all nice and round and not "wobbled". If the suction cup is actually "sucking" to your metal you'd want to make a hole in it so it did not stick.
There are probably many more methods that would work nicely, maybe even better than what I described.
It probably goes without saying that I'd try a couple methods on scrap and find which works best for each persons skills.
Hope this adds,
-Jackal
I've heard of people using scotch brite or emery paper on the end of a wooden dowel modified to chuck up in a cordless drill. If using a drill I'd suggest cordless because they usually have better speed control.
The best results I've seen, and one of the "safest" methods is to use valve grinding compound (paste) which comes in various grits. I think the finest would do it and its available at auto parts stores. Normally the paste is put on the valve seat and the valve (like in a car engine) is turned with one of two tools. One is not much more than a dowel with a suction cup on the end turned back and forth between your hands as if you were rubbing your hands to keep them warm. The other tool does the same thing but it is like an old crank egg beater and when you crank it the rod coming out of it with the suction cup on the end turns back and forth about a half turn or so. A good idea would be to make a "lower guide" of some type to keep the suction cup (which in this case has the valve grinding compound put inside of it) from "walking around" on your metal. A board with a hole in it the size of the rod which rotates back and forth with some pads on one side to raise it up of your metal just a little should work and keep the suction cup rotating in the same spot so the round burnish marks are all nice and round and not "wobbled". If the suction cup is actually "sucking" to your metal you'd want to make a hole in it so it did not stick.
There are probably many more methods that would work nicely, maybe even better than what I described.
It probably goes without saying that I'd try a couple methods on scrap and find which works best for each persons skills.
Hope this adds,
-Jackal